Lisbon's steep, sun-drenched hills are home to crumbling tiled facades, pastel hues, and landscaped parks. In a city awash with new opportunities, Lisboetas still share in their collective memory of the city's past.

In Fare: Lisbon:

• Trace the history of the traditional pastries and sweets borne out of Portugal's convents, including the famous pastel de nata

• Visit Taberna do Calhau, where architect-turned-chef Leopoldo Calhau has designed a modern homage to Alentejo taberna culture

• Hear the stories of Lisbon's rescued neon signs from days gone by—and the graphic designers who turned their lives upside down to preserve them

• Meet the producers making grogue—and preserving Cape Verdean culture—in the city's hidden sugarcane fields

• Wander through the Alfama to find the sorrowful soul of the fado houses

• Explore the city through the eyes and found-objects of collector and designer Joana Astolfi

2022